How to choose the right helmet
Homologation, fit, weight and ventilation. What to actually look at, and what matters little.
Homologation first
In Europe the standard in force is ECE 22.06, and it replaced 22.05. The difference is not a formality: impacts are tested at three speeds instead of one, rotational forces are measured — the ones that twist the neck and the brain, not only those that crush — and the visor and accessories are tested mounted on the helmet rather than separately.
A 22.05 helmet is still legal and can be very good, but it is fair to know that it was tested against older criteria. On used items we always state it: often it is the main reason for the price.
Be wary of any helmet without a homologation label sewn into the strap. On every helmet we sell we photograph that label.
Then the fit, which matters more than the brand
An expensive helmet in the wrong size protects less than a cheap one that fits well. The test is simple: put it on, fasten it, then try to rotate it with your hands. The skin of your forehead should move with the helmet. If the helmet turns and your head stays still, it is too big.
Then shake your head back and forth firmly. The helmet must not move on its own. And keep it on for at least ten minutes: pressure points are felt later, not straight away, and a point that presses becomes unbearable after an hour on the road.
The number of shells
It is the detail almost nobody looks at and that changes a lot. Good helmets are built on two or three shells of different sizes to cover the whole size range; cheap ones on a single shell, and the small sizes are obtained by adding padding inside a large shell.
The result: if you have a small head, a single-shell helmet puts on you an object larger and heavier than necessary, with more leverage on the neck and more grip on side wind.
The weight, and where you feel it
A sport full-face is between 1,200 and 1,500 grams; a modular reaches 1,700 because it has a hinge and an extra mechanism. Two hundred grams feel like nothing in your hand and are fully felt after two hours on the motorway.
| Material | Indicative weight | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Thermoplastic | 1,500–1,700 g | The cheapest, very good value for money |
| Composite (mixed fibres) | 1,350–1,500 g | The most common compromise |
| Carbon | 1,200–1,400 g | Light and expensive, not necessarily safer |
Ventilation, which in Egypt is not a detail
At forty degrees in city traffic a closed helmet becomes a greenhouse. Look for vents that really open and close with gloves on, and at least two exhaust vents at the back: without exhausts the air comes in and stays there.
The removable, washable liner matters too. With the dust, count on washing it once a month, not once a season.
Full-face, modular or open-face
- Full-face: the best protection on the chin bar, which is the most frequent impact area after the forehead.
- Modular: convenient in the city and on tour, it weighs more. Check that it is P/J homologated, that is, usable open as well.
- Jet: cool and practical, it leaves the whole face exposed. It is only honest to say so, given what we sell.
When it should be replaced
After every impact, even if it looks intact: the shell works by deforming, and only once. And in any case five years after the production date, which you find printed under the liner — materials age even when unused.